Big Sky Euro

I like getting packages

Replacement mirror glass and beginning of parts to do all the seals on the rear differential which is leaking a little from the input. Since I have to take it out to replace that one seal, I'll replace all the seals and o-rings on it cause that's how I roll.

Ok, lets kick off this weekend and start easy. First programmed the homelink mirror button to work with the garage door. No drama and no pictures but it's nice. I feel spoiled. First car that has that feature. Neat
Now where to start?

How about replacing the missing jack point pad?

Fits in the slot with a satisfying thunk

Then all you have to do is push this button in to lock it in place

Sheet ya brouh

What next? Because I don't know the history, I always like to start out with a fresh oil change. This is some very shiny oil.

This gives me a chance to use my new flat top jack stands. These things are great, why did it take me so long to learn of their existence?

Pull the topside filter out. Grrr, what is this China cr*p in here

Well humph. Someone buggered up the drain plug. I got it out but it was no bueno

Trip to the dealership. 5$ and 1 hour later. Ahh, that looks much better

Ok, I'll be honest; this really tickled me. The filler hole is perfect size to thread in the bottles to get every last drop of liquid gold out. If that's by design mad props. If not; hella cool coincidence.


Ok, warmup stretches are over. Lets get to the iron.
Oh good, yet another specialty head on the CV axels. Why folks. VW with your triple square, these with reverse torq? Sigh, whatever. I planned ahead for it anyways so had the right socket but is there some problem with using regular hex head or even allen head?

Get out of my way exhaust


Get out of my way drive shaft

Now we're getting there

Yes, I see you. You sir, Mr. Pinon seal are leaking like something that leaks a lot

Closer. Finally progress halted by needing a 32mm socket.

Ok, well wash up and live another day.

Lol the commentary on this post was on point

Ace to the rescue this morning for that 32mm socket

And I busted that nut. Not MY NUT, (geeze guys) the piñon nut loosened.


Have a thing later so fill some small portion of time with replacing the side mirror glass. These get a little corroded? at the bottom.

Theres a lock ring and double side tape holding it on

New style does away with the lock ring and tape and just clips in place but they also switch sides for the heater hookup

So just have to disassemble the wire harness a little so those 2 wires come out closer to the door

Tada



OK, time for break.

Ok back at it for a little before the vodka kicks in.
Leaky mofo seal out

New seal in. I drilled a hole in a 2x4 so I could tap it in. Meh, not fancy but worked well enough.

Tightening the piñon nut. This diff has one of those crush sleeves to set preload so I marked the nut and the piñon shaft and counted the revolutions off. Then counted the revolutions on and lined up the dots. I'm thinking that should be ok.

Flange on and nut lock plate (the gold piece) in. I'm used to these bending in on the nut, like on wheel bearings, this one you stake outward. Same function, I just had to think about it for a second.

Working on getting the output seals on the stub axles replaced
Held in just with a spring clip, easy pry out past that indentation then they slide out. Ooo baby, would you look at the girth on that shaft.

You can see the clip thing in this picture. Then it's take out the 8 bolts that hold this in. It's actually the carrier bearing race holder piece too. Didn't realize that till it was out.

Here it is off

Which leaves a big hole

Drive the old seal out

New seal and new o-ring in and surfaces cleaned

It's curious to me that what I thought was a drain hole gets orientated at about the 10 or 11 o-clock position. It's like that on both sides. Don't know why. Maybe it's not a drain per say but a over full or over pressure vent hole or something.

Getting the other side ready to go back in. This sub axle is longer.


Two, only two mind you, get locktite. Why two, and why would the two be right next to each other? Beats the heck out of me; that's above my pay grade.

Here I foolishly think I'm ready to insert the stub axle.... WRONG. I was like w-tee-eff mate
After much and inspecting I noticed there's three sets in inner splines you have to align up to slide the axle shaft into. Hard to see here. The farthest one you line up by rotating the opposite axle, the middle one you rotate by holding the closest still and rotating the input (pinion), and the closest... just rotate it man while not moving the other shit.

Cleaned up the hardware and re-installed. No drama.

Super awesome write up, love the work!

Waiting on parts so put away stuff and replaced some nit pick items.
Window corner triangle pieces. Both were broke, one more than the other. Top part pulls out slightly, then you must slide up the triangle to remove, else you break it. Also while I was in the door panel, replaced those clip things that always break.

Car came with two keys but one must have been used for a pry bar because it had been bent then bent back straight and looked like it was about to break. (Actually did break when I was working to get the halves apart)

Since the key's electronics were totally operational and it was programmed to the car I thought I'd try to save some coin and bought a key blank off eBay for cheap cheap and then swapped the electronics from the original key into the eBay housing. Interesting that the two keys seem to have totally different RFID tech in them. (The little black piece that's separate, that's an NRF brand passive tag... On the left being installed is the OE electronics)

Back together. The buttons work so I think I'm good. Anywho, need to call around and see who can cut this style key.

Oh yeah, also put oil in the diff.

When I was looking at DIYs they said make sure to get the crush washers.... Meh don't know what they were smoking the drain plugs actually have rubber seals build into them (the green rings). Well sh*t, I guess I blew two bucks for nothing. Coulda got me a nice hoo...... d emblem or something for that

Any decent locksmith shop should be able to trace cut that blank from one of your other keys. I've had Art & Ray's here in Missoula cut a few for me over the years and they charge about $25 which I think is reasonable.

I can hear you guys from here. "fuk'n slacker" ... yeah yeah, get off my case already, legitimate reason for update delay...

So I got a box of parts on Friday. This was to have all the drive shaft parts I needed to re-assemble like the guibo (flex adapter), the center carrier bearing, new bolts for the use once ones etc. So I saved this box till Sunday which I had earmarked to get this done.

I'm all excited, pulling boxes out, on and on. Ooo what's in this box? didn't think I had anything this size ordered?

Huh, what?

Yup, that's it. Three empty boxes inside one bigger box for this little strip of butyl rubber. Um 'Merica?

Ok, my precious parts

That old guibo off, see those cracky cracks? No bueno. Not terrible, but needs done

Center carrier bearing that's getting replaced. Drive shaft halves on the M3 with the 6sp are held together with this 18mm bolt. Can get about one notch on the box end of the wrench turn per go... takes a while

Pull the bearing off the shaft

There's a centering bushing. Brilliant idea to use a pilot bearing puller. Had to drill it out to 11/16 first


Then easy peasy. Thanks O'rilley tool loan

Mark the new bushing for how deep it needs to be seated. I aint go that fancy machinist prussian blue stuff, so I used purple sharpie. Boom, that's how we do ghetto fab legit style

Seat that bearing with the 30mm deep

Re-assemble. Shaft is balanced as an assembled unit so make sure line up the lines.

Install new gasket on the CV end of the drive shaft.

Then

Here's the original. MOTHER FRACKER to quote battlestar

Part number on the bag was actually correct but part in the bag was not right. So now my re-assemble project just ground to a halt. Well Monday I call ECS up and they are like we've been having problems with that vendor and had thought they had it corrected. Anyways, they overnighted me an OE guibo for a good deal so... Now it's Tuesday and I can restart my progress.

Don't put it on this way. Can't you read the picture?

Yes, this way

Where that 4 boxed butyl rubber goes.

Somewhere in it's life someone though these would do as washers on one of the heat shields. ?

Um no. Me make better


Can we finish this already. Getting there padawan

Holding the exhaust in just the right spot before I go back and tighten all the bolts

Nearly...

Time to retire this "creeper". It has served us well

On all fours again.

And in the morning... This. So I guess it works

BTW. I got to use my new 1/2 torque wrench on this. After much researching I decided on this Precisions Instruments split beam style. Very happy with it. To adjust just flip the little protective lever down, turn the wheel till to adjust, flip up the lever and you're ready to rock. No need to set it to zero when you're done; gives a good crisp ping when torque is reached.