Big Sky Euro

Rennwagen1 wrote:I know, I actually 2 valvers that I could use........time or money, you have one, you need the other.....

I must be doing something wrong because I have neither.

Rennwagen1 wrote:If you are going to daily drive that car, you won't want a cage in it. Unless you are going to pad all the bars and wear a helmet all the time. And you will also need a stronger seat, as well as 4 point harnesses to keep you in place. If you get hit in that car or get in an accident in that car with no helmet on, that cage will KILL you. Also climbing over a cage every time you get in and out gets old real fast.

The car would be a daily driver as well, and there still is no reason why not to have a cage. The car is not going to be fully caged, just the rear. Help keep eveything together during turns and whatnot. I am aware of having a stronger seat and harness. The cage will not kill me either, without going into detail about cages, I know what to expect. This cage is not some buy of ebay and put together, it is custom made by a certified NHRA welder.

You will be surprised to see where your head can go in an accident. That cage in the back that you thought no way you can hit it, well, you just might.

Also, a harness is just as bad on the street, they will break your neck. A seat belt gives just enough, while a harness is meant to hold you in place and be paired with a HANS device. The only "safe" harness for street is made by Schroth.

My opinion, if you want a track car, build it all the way correctly, don't skimp out on safety.

I just thought I would put my two cents in. I have a 75 datsun 280 z that I autocross . I use a schroth rallye cross harness and a corbeau race seat. The harness is a four point harness with a more conventionnal clasp so that it is much easier to get in and out of, it also has what they call an anti-submarining device that keeps you from being pushed down in a front collisin. there is a fold in the shoulder belt that is stitched, the stitching is supposed to break in a crash, causing the harness to give an inch or two. I use a harness bar to attach the harness to, this as well as, reenforcement of the chassy and strut bracing can give you the rigidity you need without needing a cage.

i also have a schroth, with electronic sinch and has its own shock sensor, i love it! has an easy buckle as Joe said above. you can slip right out, yet when its on, your not going anywhere! a roll bar should be fine, just keep the top bar back away from your head as possible, the cage in matts rabbit, is not only designed for roll protection, but mostly for structural rigidity, we wanted to eliminate the flex in the back of the car as much as possible it its going to want to hike up the tire and loose traction, his top bar is back away from the head but close enough to be fully functional in a roll-over.

and welcome GLIJoe!

kompressorgolf wrote:i also have a schroth, with electronic sinch and has its own shock sensor, i love it! has an easy buckle as Joe said above. you can slip right out, yet when its on, your not going anywhere! a roll bar should be fine, just keep the top bar back away from your head as possible, the cage in matts rabbit, is not only designed for roll protection, but mostly for structural rigidity, we wanted to eliminate the flex in the back of the car as much as possible it its going to want to hike up the tire and loose traction, his top bar is back away from the head but close enough to be fully functional in a roll-over.