Big Sky Euro

...aaaaand just like that, the CEL goes off. Think I'm just going to buy a new battery and go over all the wires, cables and grounding points again.

Anyone here ever buy a Bosch S5 battery? I believe Bosch makes the oem vw batteries, so for less than a $100 I can get a Bosch S5 @ pep-boys...type 48 or 47

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I would say try local salvage yards and vw vortex. I picked up an ecu for my aba for $20 at the salvage yard.

I've got an Optima red top, and that's the only euro new battery I have bought in a long time - it's lasted in 6 years and is still going. For some reason the euro fit batteries are high priced. A dry cell battery will be the best, and for a $100 you can almost buy a red top.

Yeah, I've been looking at the red tops too. $100 extra, which I might need for a new(used) ecu. Sucks I can't just plug it in and recode it. I dont have the pin and vw doesnt give em out anymore. So that requires a trip to the dealer to do the recode ecu immob dance. At least that is my understanding with my year and engine...

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Just curious if it is normal for the negative battery cable to have about a half inch of exposed wire, near the ground stud, under the battery tray? I wrapped it anyway.

Sent from my ECU using the Check Engine Light...

Yeah, normal. The rubber insulation will shrink up over time due to the harsh under the hood environment. Good to cover it up though.

Well, I just scored a replacement ECU for $50 off ebay. Hopefully it is still good (salvage). I've got 14 days, after I get it, to have it fail our succeed.

I just wish I could have found out what fried my original. Without finding anything, I'm betting it will fry the new one too. That is why I'm still gonna try and figure this out. The chances of the ECU just dying on it's own? I suppose it could happen, but im still thinking that something else contributed.

Thanks for all the input and if you guys can think of any other tests our ideas, please let me know.

Sent from my ECU using the Check Engine Light...

Did you get the code for the ECU or an IMMO defeat?

They are both IMMO 2, according to what I've read, I'm hoping I wont need it. If all else fails, I'll have to suck it up and go to a dealer to get porked.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.ph ... U_Swapping

ECM Matching

Prerequisites:

* Battery voltage at least 12.5 V.
* Immobilizer II ECM

[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Adaption - 10]
Leave channel at "00"
[Read]
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
[Exit]
Turn ignition OFF for 15 seconds. Start vehicle.

So I think I've got the ECU p0606 sorted (just jinxed myself). Now the only one that pops up is this.

17704 - Error in Mapped Cooling System (usually temp Sensor or Thermostat)
P1296 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

I had already replaced the CTS before all this ecu crap went down, but oh well, they are cheap so I bought another OEM greenie...but no dice. I am not currently experiencing any obvious thermostat symptoms. I've got heat in a normal amount, of time, and I'm not overheating. Replace it anyway? Any less obvious t-stat symptoms I'm missing? Anything else that might be related that I should check? Thanks again.

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