Big Sky Euro

There's no way that has a chip. There is no tuner that would push 24 psi through the stock turbo. It will go pop very fast. On the mk4's you just flash the ecu, so taking it apart won't tell you anything. You really need to get the boost down or you are risking blowing your turbo then an engine runaway. I'm not sure how to adjust the actuator as I've never messed with that. I would look on TDIClub, i'm sure there's a write-up on the actuator there.

I've been through this, Vagcom reads atmospheric plus boost.

MT-Getto wrote:I've been through this, Vagcom reads atmospheric plus boost.

Yeah, which I think he said was 37psi?

Ok ya'll.
I'm finding the more I read that I cannot find an actual procedure to calibrate and set the turbo adjustments; namely the stop screw and the actuator rod length.
There are gobs of people saying adjust this, do that, log here, do this test with VCDS and should read XYZ. But... I'm not sure where the source of all this comes from as the only calibration document I can come up with is for static, bench setup after actuator replacement. I followed this document when I had my turbo out.
Every adjustment listed below will be assuming a start position of calibrated to that document.

First. the stop screw.
Only semi-legitimate looking post I can find about this is on the myturbodiesel forums . There is also this here on the tdiclub forums though most is if you have an exhaust manifold pressure gauge, it's also for the BEW but...So I dinkered around with it a 1/4 turn each way and no change. Same pressure differences. This test for me though does not rev the engine to 1400, it's stays cool at 903 no matter what. At some screw settings I could bring the RPM up to 1400 with the peddle and see results, but when I shorted the screw stop (allowing for more travel) any attempt at RPM increase with the peddle resulted in VCDS / ECU getting mad. I figure 112 is between 80 and 250 so WTF.. I'll just leave it there. Note: this is the original screw setting
TL;DR - VCDS -> Engine -> Basic Settings -> 011 "Charge boost control". Should fluctuate with 80-250 mbar low to high. I'm at 112mbar.

Second. actuator rod length.
There's a bunch of threads on this. Two data points to consider, one being N75 duty cycle and the other being max boost pressure. From the UK-MK4 forums Do a 3rd gear pull up > 4000 RPM. If N75 duty cycle is lower than 70% then shorten the actuator rod. If it's above 80% then make the rod longer. Boost should be in the 17 PSI (adjusted) range. Spike to 20-22 is normal and OK, but it should NOT stay there.
TL;DR - VCDS -> Engine -> Measure -> Group 011 & Group 010 -> Log it

Red is requested
Green is actual
Blue is RPM
UNCORRECTED in mbar
SPIKE to ish:
2500 mbar corrected and converted to PSI is about 23.
Settle to ish: 2000 mbar corrected and converted to PSI is about 16.

1st - 1 turn longer ~56% N75 duty cycle @ 4k RPM


2nd - 1/2 turn shorter ~57% N75 duty cycle @ 4k RPM


3rd - 1/4 turn shorter ~59% N75 duty cycle @ 4k RPM


4th - 1/4 turn shorter (Initial settings again) ~60% N75 duty cycle @ 4k RPM


5th - 2 turns longer ~51% N75 duty cycle @ 4k RPM


6th - 1 more turn longer ~44% N75 duty cycle @ 4k RPM


So... obvious to me is that the boost isn't as responsive as the actuator rod lengthens. I also note that I'm not seeing drastic changes. Also, the N75 duty cycle that supposed to be at 70-80% at 4000 RPM. Trying to get duty cycle UP and boost DOWN for me are mutually exclusive. When I shorten I get my duty cycle up, but boost seems to hold spike longer, when I lengthen duty cycle goes down but boost spikes seem to be shorter. So I can have more response if I'm cool with spikes. No spikes, lower duty cycle. Meh

I'm like I have this feeling I'm set pretty damn conservative right now but I think I'll leave it alone. If I find someone that has an ALH I might ask them to log their data and see how it compares to mine, till then, it's not broke so I'm not going to "fix" it.

On a positive note, I was checking out some sections in VCDS and found a setting to unlock ALL doors not just drivers door when you pull the key out. Freeking love that!!!

Any of those settings seem to work fine. I'd just roll with what you think is the best. A small spike at the start of boost is just fine. Your previous post sounded like it was holding 20+psi.

I'm sure duty cycle is affected by altitude too. Thanks for the key tip too, i'll have to try that!

Anyone else have their hood insulation falling off?
Mine was. At first I thought I'd just lost several of the clips, but I found out the clips were still there but they'd pulled through the insulating material. Putting the back in correctly and the material still pulls right past the clips when you shut the hood. Many remove the insulating material as it's purpose is just to deaden sound and because racecar can all that. Not here.

The problem


Old license plate to the rescue.


Measure and cut


Test fit


A little paint


Installed. Not pulling through now.



Aint perfect, but it's a whole lot better. 4$ for the paint vs 140$ for a new insulating pad thing.

Another annoyance fix today.

Driving down the road coffee cup vibrates in the cup holder. There's no rubber or such to keep the side of the cup from hitting the holder so it makes a rattle noise. esta es no bueno.

Before - just hard plastic for the cups to hit


This EVA adhesive backed foam from Michaels is 0.89$



Cut a strip


Cut a circle for the bottom


Installed. BAM

you are truly a mad man

awesome!

Just a quick note for those reading, this post contains adult language. If you prefer a sanitized version of this post please route your traffic through a TOR node in China.

Shit shit shit, mother f'n dirtbag.
Who the bloody hell makes adhesive that don't f'n adhease?
Dang gone awesome idea with the self adhesive foam went to heck. Discovered it don't handle the heat and peals away. Eff that !!! Okay okay... Not to be beaten I went and spent 0.99 Cents for a sheet without adhesive. I'ma glue that bitch with headliner goop. I didn't take much pic cause I was mad. Pealed off, and then I used headliner glue to put it back on. Take that. It's stuck on there good now.


Okay off to gauges.
My car came with a McNally combo boost/egt gauge. Some of my digits were burnt out and boost never worked because no pressure sensor. Called em up, talked to the engineer, pretty nice folks there. Turns out they were overdriving the LEDs to try and make them more readable during directly sunlight. They warranted it and fixed it for me for 40 bucks. I think that's reasonable. Bought a sensor for the boost while I was there.

Gauge pod was loose. Found out it was busted. Fixed that bee-auch.
What kinda dirtbag makes you take the steering wheel off to get the column surround off? Grrrr









So I had a brilliant idea to put a sun shade on the gauge so that even if it was in the sun, it'd be shaded, ya know? Found out they make such a thing and for a mear 7 dollars it was mine.




Once my gauge got back from repair I installed it. Excellent! Oooh look! sensor too


So I'm in the cockpit area right? Well my knee bolster has been loose and rattles from time to time. What a freak'n annoyance. Find out the screw places things are completely busted out. Fuuuuuu Volkswagen, can't you make plastic that can last?
Ok, we can fix this.









Throw a little flat black on it and she's perfectly A-OK




Okay, with that fixed and solidly in place what's next? Oh yeah, that darn sensor. Where to put it? Lots of people are putting them in the plastic pipe that parallels the timing cover. Metal NPT fitting in plastic es no bueno in my head. Where else? This guy on vortex claims he's done it "the right way". To his credit it's not bad but... well I'm

Stand by for metal shavings. Lets cut off this piece here that has screw holes for who knows what. That way we can get this plug in front where we can actually get a wrench on it and clip the plug in no problem-oh.







Just into it. Don't want to poke far into the intake track.



BAM! Like it was meant to be there. Now that's how we do folks.




Oh, and this excellent idea... Well its out now. With it on it hits the steering wheel when you try to turn. Shit. Oh well.



So in parting... Look at those gauges. Mmm all work and no rattly bits.


Damn. My work here is done.*
*not really done as in permanently, but done on this mother fuking project.