Big Sky Euro

It was time to change my fuel filter, so I ordered one from ECS tuning and decided to make some time tonight to put it in.

Time: 45 mins.
Skill: Easy
Materials:

1. 10mm socket and wrench
2. T20 Torx
3. Flatblade screwdriver
4. Channel lock pliers
5. One fuel filter - part #8E0 201 511 J - fits Audi A4 (B6) up to 2005

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it with jack stands. Make sure to chock the front wheels and that the vehicle is secure - you will be working directly underneath, so no need to take risks.



The fuel filter is tucked into a recessed area in the body of the car, directly in front of the passengers side rear wheel.



Start by removing the composite sheild covering the fiter area. There are two T20 torx screws near the bottom of the wheel well:



Now remove the two 10mm plastic nuts and the center push tab:



Remove the cover and now you can see the filter. Before you remove the lines from the filter, you will need to prepare a few things. First you will need some kind of tub or container to catch the excess fuel from the filter. You will also need a few rags to keep your hands clean. You can also remove the gas cap to release the pressure in the fuel system - this will decrease the amount of fuel sprayed in your face.

The connector is a simple press and lock fitting, so to release it you need to press the tab (press in where the connector is highlighted yellow), push the connector in slightly, and then the tab will release and you can pull the connector off the filter.





Repeat this on the next three connectors:







With all the connectors removed you can remove the filter. One tip is to use the yellow and blue caps from the new filter to cap the old fuel filter, which will minimize the amount of fuel spilling out of the filter as you remove it. Remove the T20 screw and the filter will come out of the holder - drop it down and put it in the container you had to catch the extra fuel.



You'll notice the filter has a specific direction - make sure it is installed with the arrow pointing toward the motor.



Replace the filter in the holder, and screw in the T20 screw. You can then reconnect the connectors and make sure there are no leaks.



Replace the shield on the car and you can now start the car. It will take 2-3 tries for the pump to prime the filter, but it will start and run.



Take it for a test drive and call it a day!

Great write up Mike!
I'm begining to think you like doing these detailed write-ups!

Thanks! I've been making a habit of keeping my camera in the garage to visually document. There's been times where I want to recall what something looked like before I took it apart, and a digi cam comes in really handy.

I suppose it serves dual purpose because I have been using it whenever I do anything on my car for my reference, and I figure that if my DIY writeup helps someone else with the same thing, it was worth documenting it.

Nice! If I'm not mistaken (I frequently am though, so feel free to correct me) this is very SIMILAR to changing one out on a Mk4. So, thanks for the great reference materials.

It is similar, except on an MKIV there will only be one inlet and one outlet because of the way the fuel system is setup. Same connectors and same location.

call.