1972 VW Bus Deluxe 9 Passenger - Projekt Uber Geizig

[padroB5]

LOL 10 mins wow lol i had a flash back of grease lol....... back then coffee was the energy drink of choice well not much choice tho lol. so i am cerious how john pulls allnighters lol.. so coffe is your alli an your farce mike lol.. be one with it.

[Rennwagen1]

so i am cerious how john pulls allnighters lol..

[sneakyboy1]

^^^TRUTH^^^

[Mikewire]

I've been able to work a little on the Bus, so here's an update:

Finished laying the sound dampener on each interior panel and the sliding door



Assembled most of the long block, and scrubbed tins ready to prep for POR-15. Threw in new plugs and a belt



No pics, but I pulled the fuel tank and emptied almost 2 gallons of nasty fuel - luckily, it seems to be in good shape. Found that the sender is not OEM, so it was replaced at some point. I need to replace all fuel lines and have the tank boiled or clean it out myself with some acid and then coat it to prevent it from rusting any more.

[76scirocco]

We have had really bad luck with coating the tank. You have to be 100% sure you coated the entire tank. If there is one little pin hole for air or gas to get behind the coating it will start to come off and then you have chunks of the coating plugging your fuel system. We still sold the coating at work, just made sure to warn people of the possible problems.

[Mikewire]

I have heard of that happening, especially with the Urethane coatings. I dunno, I am on the fence with coating and with that input I think I may pass. I don't think the tank is bad enough to need to coat it as long as I can get all the rust and varnish out of it, but I want to prevent any more rust from building up.

Do you think it would be fine to have it cleaned only, or should I clean it myself? I called a few places and they want minimum of $75 to clean it. I'm pretty sure I can clean it for less than $25 and some time, but I'm not sure I want to deal with acid. It was sitting for 23 years with old gas in it, so it may be worth the $$ to pay someone to do it.

[76scirocco]

I usually just spray the tanks out with a Hotsy really well. At work I had a couple different tips for the wand to get all the areas of the tank and then just let it run hot water through it for a while. That usually takes care of everything but rust. If there is rust, I have thrown a chain inside and then rotate the tank to knock all the rust off and then repeat the hotsy. If you have access to a hotsy that would be the way to go, if you have to pay someone then I don't know. I have only used acid on really nasty ones and some of those seem to continually have rust issues. I changed jobs so I don't have a good hookup at the moment.

[Mikewire]

Hmm, yup I don't have access to a Hotsy unfortunately, so I'll probably end up taking it to a shop just to get it done and get it back inside the bus. Thanks for the input on that Randy.

[4est]

Hey looky here an update! COOL!
Don't you need a FI tank anyways? you know a tank with two lines? Or did i miss that part?

[Mikewire]

Well, there's two schools of thought there, which I'm sure you know:

I can use a Y and tap the supply line, but it may cause the returned fuel to heat up too much and possibly cause pump failure or vapor lock. Or, I could reuse one of the evap ports and route the return there, but I don't know if the diameter of the line is big enough for the volume of fuel being returned.

Or, I could try to find an F.I. tank from Brax or maybe Randy's Bug Works.

I just don't want to be stuck with a non-F.I. tank sitting in my garage that I will never use. You know of a decent F.I. tank anywhere? Maybe someone who would do a trade?