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Post by Mikewire »

I concur with Aeron. Many bicycle (and MC) frames are PC'd and they have been using that process for a long time - at least 10+ years. There's more overal stress on a frame than on a wheel, and I have seen no breakage or fractures. In fact when bike frames fail, they fail at the weld due to excess heat stress on the joints when originally welded.

They are usually made of a 6062 or 7071 (or 9091) Al Alloy which is super strong aircraft grade, similar to Al wheels. Specialized Stumpjumpers are (were) made of an M2 ceramic/Al alloy which is a little stronger and more responsive. :thumbsup:

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Post by RuS4ty »

Its not about the physical strain on the wheel, but more of the chemical(?) strain during the curring process. The aluminum can anneal around the temperature of the curing. Some power coaters operate at a lower temperature for a little longer time to avoid this. I guess I shouldn't say it is going to change the properties of the aluminum, but it COULD (especially if done wrong).
Most factory wheels are cast aluminum and are usually tempered to withstand the physical strains you mentioned, and when the metal anneals it can affect that temper.
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Post by Roadhog »

I agree with Rusty, anytime you heat up metal really hot it will change the properties of it.
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Post by ValveFloat »

Most factory wheels are cast aluminum and are usually tempered to withstand the physical strains you mentioned, and when the metal anneals it can affect that temper.
Interesting. I had to dig out the ol' Mark's Standard to look into this further.
Annealing of most Als is done at around 650°F, and heat treating is done at higher temps, over 800°F. For instance, to take 6061 to a T4 temper the heat treat temp is 975-995F.
But what is interesting is to take it to T6, it is "aged" at only 320°F for 6-8hrs.
So, I have to disagree that the PC oven could anneal a cast wheel, but if the heat treat of the wheel includes a lower temperature, but above room temp "ageing" that could be affected.
I would think the most important thing is what is done with the wheel after baking. If it was pulled from the hot oven and tossed in the snow, that would be bad, but if it remained in the oven and was cooled slowly, I would think it would be fine.

Aren't a lot of wheels PCed by the manufacturers?
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Post by Checkers »

I highly recommend Powdercoating of Montana on Jackrabbit.
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Re: Powder Coat

Post by path0s »

I work with metal everyday, and as long as it is not pulled straight from the oven, mounted, and then driven' on. You should be fine.

Al Alloys are stronger than just Al, and also it depends on the temper of the Al for how strong it is, the stronger the temper, the higher the temper, the more brittle & less malleable it is.

PC'd wheels & baking to 400 is just a gaurantee that the paint is cured and bonded correctly. I paint parts over here at Ellsworth & we only turn our booth to 150F & the part is cured in roughly 1-2 hours on a top coat. But, it's not a PC, it's just a polyeurathane top coat.(i've already thought about taking my wheels to work and painting them myself.)

PC black huffs + red pin stripe + T red GTI = hawt. :thumbsup:
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Re: Powder Coat

Post by Rennwagen1 »

path0s wrote: PC black huffs + red pin stripe + T red GTI = hawt. :thumbsup:
Secksey hawt!

My T Red Jetta has black wheels with red center rings. I love it.
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Re: Powder Coat

Post by path0s »

Mind uploading a pic of it? I'm thinking about powder coating my huffs with a red time attack.
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